Black Mantel & Adamantine Clocks

Summary:


Black mantel clocks—often made from cast iron, wood compositions, or celluloid-based Adamantine finishes—were popular in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. These clocks are known for their bold architectural cases, contrasting column designs, and durable finishes. Adamantine clocks, produced mainly by Seth Thomas, use a patented decorative surface that mimics marble or onyx while offering long-term durability and distinctive color patterns.

Both types share similar mechanical movements and are well-loved for their deep, resonant strike tones and ornate, recognizable appearance.


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Key Identifiers:


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Architectural Case Design

  • Rectangular bodies with strong, symmetrical lines

  • Full or half columns on the front (onyx, faux marble, or celluloid-wrapped)

  • Feet made of cast metal, brass, or decorative composites

  • Large, bezel-mounted front dials with convex or flat glass

Adamantine finishes may appear in:

  • Black

  • Green, red, or brown marbled patterns

  • Faux onyx or stone veining


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Mechanical Movement Type

  • 8-day, spring-driven movements

  • Time and strike, often on a coil gong

  • Some variations with dual chime rods or bim-bam strike systems

  • Steel or brass plates with rear access via a removable back panel

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Pendulum Regulation

Most use a rear-access pendulum bob:

  • Suspension spring at the top of the movement

  • Adjustable rating nut beneath the bob for speed regulation 

Some models use a F/S adjustment arbor accessible from the dial.


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Gong and Strike Assembly

  • Coiled steel gong mounted to the rear case board

  • Distinctive deep, resonant “bong” tone each hour

  • Half-hour single strike 

Chime volume depends on case resonance and gong placement.

Operational Guide:


Placement & Leveling

Proper setup ensures even beat and reliable strike.

  • Place on a solid, stable surface

  • Level the case front-to-back and side-to-side

  • Listen for an even tick–tock; adjust leveling slightly to either side until the beat sounds even.

These clocks are very sensitive to leveling due to shorter pendulum lengths.

Step 1:

Starting the Clock

  • Remove the back panel

  • Attach the pendulum to the suspension leader

Swing gently to start; ensure pendulum clears the case floor and gong.

Step 2:

Winding

Adamantine clocks typically have two winding arbors, generally strike on the left and time on the right:

  • Insert the key fully

  • Turn slowly and steadily

  • Stop when resistance increases

  • Wind both arbors fully once per week

Never force a key that resists turning

Step 3:

Setting the Time

  • Move the minute hand forward

  • Stop at each half-hour and hour to allow the strike to complete

  • Never force the hands backward

The hour hand will move automatically.

Step 4:

Strike Operation

  • Strike once on the half hour

  • Strike full hour count on the hour

  • Use a hammer that hits the coil gong mounted at the back of the case

Step 5:

Regulating Timekeeping

Pendulum Bob Adjustment

  • Lower bob: Slow the clock

  • Raise bob: Speed the clock
    Make adjustments in small increments and allow a full day to evaluate performance.

Dial-Based Fast/Slow Adjustment

Some models include a regulator arbor behind the dial:

  • Insert a small key and turn toward F to speed up

  • Turn toward S to slow down

This adjusts the pendulum length internally.

Step 6:


Routine Maintenance

Case & Finish

  • Dust regularly with a soft cloth

  • Use a mild, non-abrasive cleaner only on Adamantine surfaces

  • Avoid heavy polishing or oil-based conditioners

Movement Care

  • Have the clock professionally cleaned and oiled every 5–10 years

  • Keep the movement dust-free by keeping the rear panel closed

  • Avoid exposing the clock to humidity or direct sunlight

Handling & Transport

  • Remove pendulum before moving

  • Secure the gong and ensure no loose parts inside

  • Carry from the base, not the columns or top surfaces