Clock Won’t Tick but Is Fully Wound? Common Causes Explained
Few things are more frustrating than a fully wound mechanical clock that refuses to tick. You wind it as usual, expect the familiar rhythm to begin—but instead, the clock sits silent. This issue is common, especially in older or unserviced clocks, and it often indicates a mechanical condition rather than a power issue.
This expanded guide walks you through the most likely causes, diagnostic steps, and when it’s time to seek professional repair.
Why a Fully Wound Clock Still Doesn’t Run
Despite what many believe, a clock that won’t start is not “overwound.” Mechanical clocks cannot be overwound; instead, a fully wound mainspring simply reveals that some other part of the movement is preventing power from traveling through the gear train.
The following sections explain what typically stops a clock even when the mainspring or weights are supplying adequate power.
1. The Clock Is Out of Beat
This is the number one cause of a clock failing to start after winding.
A clock is “in beat” when the tick and tock sounds occur evenly. If the beat is uneven—
tick…..tock—tick………tock
—the pendulum will not receive consistent impulse and the clock may refuse to run at all.
Why this happens:
The clock was moved
The case shifted on the mantel
The pendulum was bumped
The crutch slipped or drifted over time
Fix:
Start the pendulum and listen carefully.
If uneven, adjust the crutch or reposition the case until the rhythm becomes even.
(A full beat-setting guide is provided in Day 3 of your blog series.)
2. The Clock Is Not Level
A pendulum clock must be level both side-to-side and front-to-back to function properly. Even slight tilting can prevent escapement lock and release.
Symptoms of a leveling problem:
Pendulum starts but stops quickly
Clock runs only when tilted
Tick-tock is uneven even after adjustments
Fix:
Use:
Felt pads
Shims
Adjustable feet (if provided)
Level the clock, then restart the pendulum.
3. Pendulum or Suspension Spring Issues
If the pendulum is not properly attached or the suspension spring is damaged, the clock will not run—even if fully wound.
Common problems include:
Pendulum not hooked into the crutch
Suspension spring twisted or bent
Spring broken at the top block or pendulum leader
Pendulum rubbing against the case
What to check:
Is the pendulum hanging freely?
Does it swing without touching anything?
Does the crutch properly engage the pendulum leader?
A weak or cracked suspension spring will prevent the pendulum from maintaining momentum.
4. Jammed or Dirty Gear Train
Clocks require periodic cleaning and lubrication. When old oil becomes sticky, the gears no longer rotate freely. Dust and residue accumulate, forming the paste-like material often seen in neglected movements.
How to identify this:
Clock tries to run but weakly
Escapement flutters or stalls
Hands move jerkily before stopping
Cause:
Old oil turns into abrasive sludge, increasing friction until the train cannot turn even with a fully wound mainspring.
Fix:
A full movement overhaul is required, including:
Disassembly
Ultrasonic cleaning
Pivot polishing
Bushing replacement if necessary
Proper lubrication
This is not a DIY task.
5. Worn Bushings or Pivots
As clock parts wear, pivot holes become oval instead of round. This causes gears to tilt slightly and bind under load, preventing the train from turning.
Signs of bushing wear:
Clock runs only when tilted
Visible oval pivot holes
Black residue around pivot ends
Escapement “hangs” intermittently
When bushings wear enough, the clock may stop completely, even when fully wound.
6. Hands Interfering With Each Other
Surprisingly, hand interference is a common—and often overlooked—cause of a clock that won’t tick.
Problems include:
Hour and minute hands touching
Hands scraping the dial
Hands rubbing the glass
Loose hand bushings causing drag
This friction prevents the gear train from advancing.
Fix:
Remove the minute hand nut and gently re-bend or reposition the hands so they rotate freely without contact.
7. Power Train Issues (Weights or Springs)
While the clock may feel fully wound, power may not actually be transferring through the train.
Causes include:
Mainspring set (low power output even when wound tight)
Mainspring slipping in the barrel
Weight cords wrapped incorrectly
Cable drum malfunction
Ratchet or click failure
A click failure can feel like winding normally, but the mainspring won’t hold tension.
8. Escapement Problems
The escapement controls the release of power through the train. If anything interferes with its motion, the clock cannot run.
Common issues:
Bent escape wheel teeth
Worn pallet faces
Improper lock and drop
Crutch misalignment
Escapement work is highly precise and requires professional adjustment.
9. Misconception: “The Clock Is Overwound”
This myth persists because many clocks stop in a fully wound state.
But in reality:
A fully wound spring simply means the clock has reached maximum power, and there is an underlying mechanical issue preventing that power from being released.
Clocks stop because of friction or misalignment, not because they received too much winding.
When You Should Call a Professional
If your clock still won’t tick after checking:
Beat
Level
Pendulum engagement
Hand clearance
Suspensions
…then your movement likely needs:
A full cleaning
Bushing replacement
Pivot polishing
Escapement adjustment
Suspension spring repair
Mechanical clocks require full service every 5–10 years to remain in good working order.
If you're located in Calhoun, GA or the nearby area, Time and Seasons Clock Repair provides expert diagnostics, cleaning, and overhaul services for all types of mechanical clocks.
